We will be touring central-ish France on a canal boat in September 2025. This is the approximate route from Joigny to Carbigny. The route is basically:
- Joigny
- Laroche-Migennes
- Auxerre
- Vincelles
- Vermenton
- Chatel-Censoir
- Clamency
- Tannay
- Corbigny
We will be touring central-ish France on a canal boat in September 2025. This is the approximate route from Joigny to Carbigny. The route is basically:
The islands are very different, La Gomera is much smaller but has been more fully settled (in history, that is - today, Tenerife has a much larger population). The Canary tourism draws two main audiences from Europe, one audience stays by the coast for beaches, golfing, and nightlife, the other is a trekking theme. We were trekking folks. The two main groups coming are English and French; there may be Spaniards, too, but they all speak Spanish and are hard to tell from the natives. There are a scattering of other folks, too, like the Netherlands and Germans, but the English and French are the main groups. This shows up in the dining - although there are few German restaurants (I do not know why), there are LOTS of English pubs and restaurants along with the local style restaurants.
I used a tracking app on my phone and added it up - I talked about 150km (93 miles) over 65 hours and climbed 4657m (14000 ft) over 17 days. Because of flight connections, we spent a night and 19 hours in Iceland, where we did a food tour of Reykjavik in the morning before our connecting flight. Our sons were able to join us; they walked farther than I did, but I do not think that is a surprise.We enjoyed the trip, but the Canaries are interesting islands. There is not a lot of "there" there - the islands are isolated and volcanic, and they are (overall) very dry. There is a wet side to each island because they poke up into the winds and the mountains capture some moisture, but a lot of the area of the islands are pretty barren and dry. There are no native mammals, and the original settlers (c. the year zero) brought goats and lived a subsistence living, isolated for 1400 years from the mainland. There is not much reason to go to these islands, so no one did. Because the islands are volcanic, life before the Spaniards was neolithic - no metals, just stone tools. The Spaniards came around 1400 and pretty much killed or enslaved the populations by 1460 or so. Columbus showed up several times starting in 1492 and each time, he picked up water, food, and slaves. Even into the time of Franco, life was brutal and so there was a mass exodus from the Canaries to Venezuela, even by the descendents of the Spanish. Pretty ugly history.
Most of the island is covered by lava or scrub (knee-high shrubs scattered rather sparsely). On the wet sides, there are forests, but the trees rarely exceed 20 feet in height. These forests are lingering remnants of the forests that covered the entire Mediterranean area about 10 million years ago, and the Canary forests have survived due to isolation. They are pleasant to walk through, but even on the "wet side", the streams are often seasonal, dry most of the year. The largest continuously flowing "river" on La Gomera is only wide enough to step over.I am getting long, so I shall pause. More later.
Metric. Of course, all the units are metric - kilometers per hour (km/h, sometimes "clicks"), kilometers (km, sometimes "clicks"), and meters (m). Speed limits are posted in km/h, usually a multiple of ten. The gauges in the car are in the same units, so conversion is not required, but as an American, I like to think in terms of miles, so I take the value in km and drop the last digit, then multiple by six and round up to a multiple of five. For example, 70 km/h becomes 7 * 6, giving 42 and rounding up to 45; 100 km/h becomes 10 * 6, giving 60 mph.
Roundabouts. In Boston, these are called rotaries but we call them roundabouts in the Pacific Northwest. They are beloved structures in France (outside Paris) to the point that traffic lights are relatively rare and there are very few STOP signs. On various errands, I would barely touch my brakes while covering 35 km because everything was a rotary rather than a STOP sign or traffic light. There are two key tricks for rotaries - entry and exit.
Rotary entry is a merge process. You wan to avoid stopping; instead, adjust your entry speed so that you fit into traffic. In rush hour, this may not be possible and you will stop to wait for an entry, but mostly you will slow a bit to merge into the flowing traffic. That is it - other drivers expect it and will be surprised (unpleasantly) should you stop.
Rotary exit can be confusing, so stay alert. The first thing is to know which exit you want. Larger rotaries will have five or more roads meeting, so you may want an exit other than a right angle (right, straight, left). Some rotaries also have blocked exits (these do not count) or exits for special purposes like maintenance or parking lots (especially park-and-ride lots), and these do count. When I say "count", your GPS (or navigator) should tell you which exit number you want. For example, "second exit" is often the equivalent of straight through. In another style, my wife and I would talk about "virtual left" meaning to take the exit around 270 degrees, which could be more or fewer than the third exit.
While many rotaries are effectively a single lane, there are larger rotaries with two entrance, travel, and exit lanes and people will use all the lanes. When you enter a rotary in a two-lane entry, keep to your lane: right lane to the outer lane and left land to the center lane. Be alert for someone traveling on your left who wants to exit - let them in. It helps to signal your intentions - signal left to stay in the rotary and signal right when you are going to take the next exit.
Tolls. The major roads, Routes National or N-number roads, will likely have tolls and some smaller roads may, too, as well as larger bridges. France has an automated toll system and your rental car my have a transponder; check with the agent when you pick up the car. Cars with transponders can use the lanes marked for "e" or "EZ", typically to the left side of the block of toll booths. If you want to pay in cash, the marked lanes are typically to the right. The lanes in the middle are for payment by credit cards, and these allow "contactless" (aka "tap") if your card is capable. Sometimes there are special lanes to the far right for trucks, so stay out of their way. My experience is that the contactless lanes happily accept Apple Pay and Google Wallet, either from a phone or from a smartwatch.
Toll tickets. As you enter a Route National, you will probably pick up a ticket at the booth. As you exit the Route National, you will insert the ticket, then present payment (e.g., contactless card). In another style, you will simply pay a fixed toll at a toll booth, but there will still be EZ, card, and cash lanes.
Speed limits. Speed limits on the N-number roads tend to be 130 km/h, but this varies and can be as low as 100-110 km/h, and the exit speeds are closer to 70 km/h. Speed limits on mid-sized roads are usually around 100 km/h and speed limits on the smaller roads are 80-90 km/h, varying. As the mid and smaller roads enter towns, the speed limits will drop quickly to about 70 km/h and then down to 50 km/h. These are typical speed limits and you should always check the posted speeds.
Speeding tickets. Many towns are equipped with traffic cameras that will record your license plate number and speed. If you are speeding, the Republique Francaise will send you an Avis de Contravention - a speeding ticket. The report (ticket) will tell you when and where the contravention happened and what the infraction was, such as "exces de vitesse" for speeding, a parking ticket, etc. This will cost you a fine, conveniently payable by credit card. The rental car company will also send you a letter explaining that they were contacted by the government to ask for information about the registered driver(s). The rental car will charge you for this contact using the payment information on record (fees vary, but expect euro 40-50). There are many variables to determine the cost of a speeding ticket, but expect euro 45-180, depending on how quickly you pay and how fast you were going.
So there you have some thoughts on driving in France.
We followed the host out into the orchard (is that what one calls it?) of oak trees that had been innoculated with truffle spoor in the hope that truffles would eventually grow. Truffles are wild things and so this is far from a certain thing. They have to overplant oak trees to get sufficient truffles. I call them "trees" which is botanically correct, but I think it would be better to think of them as saplings. Wild truffles are found in the forest, but growing truffles only need oak roots.
After the hunt, we retired to the farmhouse patio and gorged on truffle specialities, from simple sliced truffles on buttered bread, to truffle oil (olive oil infused with truffles), and truffle honey on ice cream. The last is pretty novel but it works very well for those seeking truffle immersion. One of our party was not thrilled with the truffles, so he satisfied himself with the local charmant (champagne made outside the appellation area).In the end, we quite enjoyed the whole experience and we "adopted" a truffle tree. This gives us rights to truffles each year. Our truffles shipped from France on Monday (harvested on Sunday), and promptly ran into bad weather in the U.S. Expected on Wednesday, the truffles arrived today (Friday) and we are gathering for the feast. Truffles have a short shelf life, so one eats them as soon after harvesting as possible. We get enouhg truffles to have a couple of nights of truffle delights and even a couple of breakfasts. These are proper black truffles, not the chemicalized variety that comes in jars with chemical additions, so we take care to make dishes that are simple and allow the flavor of the truffle to shine. We never cook the truffles except as they are warmed by the cooked dish when they are served together.
Anticipating the truffle shipment has become an annual tradition for us, and we usually expand the event with foie gras and other gems.
I have kept up my vaccinations, adding RSV and seasonal flu vaccinations to the string of COVID vaccinations. I mask on airplanes and often in airport waiting areas. But I confess that I am pretty lassaiz faire the rests of the time. I have not been masking in retail establishments but the numbers are starting to concern me, and I may start masking in stores.