We will be touring central-ish France on a canal boat in September 2025. This is the approximate route from Joigny to Carbigny. The route is basically:
- Joigny
- Laroche-Migennes
- Auxerre
- Vincelles
- Vermenton
- Chatel-Censoir
- Clamency
- Tannay
- Corbigny
We will be touring central-ish France on a canal boat in September 2025. This is the approximate route from Joigny to Carbigny. The route is basically:
Metric. Of course, all the units are metric - kilometers per hour (km/h, sometimes "clicks"), kilometers (km, sometimes "clicks"), and meters (m). Speed limits are posted in km/h, usually a multiple of ten. The gauges in the car are in the same units, so conversion is not required, but as an American, I like to think in terms of miles, so I take the value in km and drop the last digit, then multiple by six and round up to a multiple of five. For example, 70 km/h becomes 7 * 6, giving 42 and rounding up to 45; 100 km/h becomes 10 * 6, giving 60 mph.
Roundabouts. In Boston, these are called rotaries but we call them roundabouts in the Pacific Northwest. They are beloved structures in France (outside Paris) to the point that traffic lights are relatively rare and there are very few STOP signs. On various errands, I would barely touch my brakes while covering 35 km because everything was a rotary rather than a STOP sign or traffic light. There are two key tricks for rotaries - entry and exit.
Rotary entry is a merge process. You wan to avoid stopping; instead, adjust your entry speed so that you fit into traffic. In rush hour, this may not be possible and you will stop to wait for an entry, but mostly you will slow a bit to merge into the flowing traffic. That is it - other drivers expect it and will be surprised (unpleasantly) should you stop.
Rotary exit can be confusing, so stay alert. The first thing is to know which exit you want. Larger rotaries will have five or more roads meeting, so you may want an exit other than a right angle (right, straight, left). Some rotaries also have blocked exits (these do not count) or exits for special purposes like maintenance or parking lots (especially park-and-ride lots), and these do count. When I say "count", your GPS (or navigator) should tell you which exit number you want. For example, "second exit" is often the equivalent of straight through. In another style, my wife and I would talk about "virtual left" meaning to take the exit around 270 degrees, which could be more or fewer than the third exit.
While many rotaries are effectively a single lane, there are larger rotaries with two entrance, travel, and exit lanes and people will use all the lanes. When you enter a rotary in a two-lane entry, keep to your lane: right lane to the outer lane and left land to the center lane. Be alert for someone traveling on your left who wants to exit - let them in. It helps to signal your intentions - signal left to stay in the rotary and signal right when you are going to take the next exit.
Tolls. The major roads, Routes National or N-number roads, will likely have tolls and some smaller roads may, too, as well as larger bridges. France has an automated toll system and your rental car my have a transponder; check with the agent when you pick up the car. Cars with transponders can use the lanes marked for "e" or "EZ", typically to the left side of the block of toll booths. If you want to pay in cash, the marked lanes are typically to the right. The lanes in the middle are for payment by credit cards, and these allow "contactless" (aka "tap") if your card is capable. Sometimes there are special lanes to the far right for trucks, so stay out of their way. My experience is that the contactless lanes happily accept Apple Pay and Google Wallet, either from a phone or from a smartwatch.
Toll tickets. As you enter a Route National, you will probably pick up a ticket at the booth. As you exit the Route National, you will insert the ticket, then present payment (e.g., contactless card). In another style, you will simply pay a fixed toll at a toll booth, but there will still be EZ, card, and cash lanes.
Speed limits. Speed limits on the N-number roads tend to be 130 km/h, but this varies and can be as low as 100-110 km/h, and the exit speeds are closer to 70 km/h. Speed limits on mid-sized roads are usually around 100 km/h and speed limits on the smaller roads are 80-90 km/h, varying. As the mid and smaller roads enter towns, the speed limits will drop quickly to about 70 km/h and then down to 50 km/h. These are typical speed limits and you should always check the posted speeds.
Speeding tickets. Many towns are equipped with traffic cameras that will record your license plate number and speed. If you are speeding, the Republique Francaise will send you an Avis de Contravention - a speeding ticket. The report (ticket) will tell you when and where the contravention happened and what the infraction was, such as "exces de vitesse" for speeding, a parking ticket, etc. This will cost you a fine, conveniently payable by credit card. The rental car company will also send you a letter explaining that they were contacted by the government to ask for information about the registered driver(s). The rental car will charge you for this contact using the payment information on record (fees vary, but expect euro 40-50). There are many variables to determine the cost of a speeding ticket, but expect euro 45-180, depending on how quickly you pay and how fast you were going.
So there you have some thoughts on driving in France.
We followed the host out into the orchard (is that what one calls it?) of oak trees that had been innoculated with truffle spoor in the hope that truffles would eventually grow. Truffles are wild things and so this is far from a certain thing. They have to overplant oak trees to get sufficient truffles. I call them "trees" which is botanically correct, but I think it would be better to think of them as saplings. Wild truffles are found in the forest, but growing truffles only need oak roots.
After the hunt, we retired to the farmhouse patio and gorged on truffle specialities, from simple sliced truffles on buttered bread, to truffle oil (olive oil infused with truffles), and truffle honey on ice cream. The last is pretty novel but it works very well for those seeking truffle immersion. One of our party was not thrilled with the truffles, so he satisfied himself with the local charmant (champagne made outside the appellation area).In the end, we quite enjoyed the whole experience and we "adopted" a truffle tree. This gives us rights to truffles each year. Our truffles shipped from France on Monday (harvested on Sunday), and promptly ran into bad weather in the U.S. Expected on Wednesday, the truffles arrived today (Friday) and we are gathering for the feast. Truffles have a short shelf life, so one eats them as soon after harvesting as possible. We get enouhg truffles to have a couple of nights of truffle delights and even a couple of breakfasts. These are proper black truffles, not the chemicalized variety that comes in jars with chemical additions, so we take care to make dishes that are simple and allow the flavor of the truffle to shine. We never cook the truffles except as they are warmed by the cooked dish when they are served together.
Anticipating the truffle shipment has become an annual tradition for us, and we usually expand the event with foie gras and other gems.
Cognac is on display everywhere and the largest cognac houses dominate the riverfront. These include Hennessy, Martell, Camus, and Remy Martin. Courvoisier is based in a small town about 9 km outside Cognac.
An odd thing about cognac that distinguishes it from many other grape beverages (wine, champagne) is that it has no vintage. By definition, the cognac houses run a sophisticated process that produces a product that is consistent from year to year. The process is based on repeated taste tests and blending to produce the particular flavor of each house. As their marketing has gotten more sophisticated, the houses produce cognac products with distinct flavors, and may even occasionally declare a vintage, but the traditional products are consistent by design. Thus, an "old bottle of cognac" has no particular significance other than an emotional tie.
Distractions kept me from posting photos from our recent travels. I shall take steps to remedy this oversight.
In September, 2022, we traveled to France and Greece for long planned and long postponed vacations. After repeated delays and changes, the travel followed a three-part structure. The first part was a week of vacation in France near Bordeau and Perigord, a week of being in the "delegation" in Nantes, and a week of sailing in Greece. On our first night in Nantes, we had dinner that featured the local tradition of crepes made of buckwheat, dining al fresco. We stayed in an unusual hotel - Micr'Home - and took in art throughout the town. The walking was good and helped us fight the insidious tendrils of jetlag.The destinations of the first week required that we pick up a rental car at the Nantes airport. We traveled with our son, A, to Les Epesses, home of the famed Puy du Fou historical theme park. Puy du Fou is an interesting place. On the one hand, it is a bit schmaltzy (campy) for Americans, but it is extremely well done and a lot of fun. Various bits of history have passed by or near a chateau near Les Epesses, and these historical facts are turned into spectacles. For example, there is evidence that Romans were nearby and so there is a colloseum with a spectacular show that involves chariot races, wild animals, and gladiators. There is evidence that Vikings raided in the area, so there is a spectacular show that involves a Viking longship and burning barns. Laperouse, a famous explorer, is featured in an exhibit about his explorations because he was born in the nearby town.
I seem to be having trouble with the blogging tool, so I will stop (albeit abruptly) and continue in the next post.
We have returned from travels to France, Greece, and Canada, only to find that the fire season continues and air quality is getting bad. When we returned yesterday from Canada, the air was hazy but did not smell. Today, the air is much hazier, smoky looking, and there is a clear scent of burnt wood in the air. An odd thing we noticed that that there were air quality alerts for metropolitan Seattle but no such alerts for metropolitan Vancouver (BC) - yet the air quality seemed about the same. I conclude that Canadian authorities have lax requirements, either for air quality or for reporting of air quality.
We flew to France via Amsterdam. I masked the entire trip as I was spending time in a small aluminum tube with a couple hundred strangers. It only takes one or two hoseheads to make an entire airplane sick (I debated using a different phrase, a more sympathetic tag, but I cannot imagine why an intelligent person knowingly ill or feeling ill with COVID symptoms would intentionally travel on an airplane, but I digress). We staved off some jet lag by wandering around Nantes (FR) and settled on a small crepe restaurant for dinner. The next day or so, we picked up a car at the airport and headed out for some tourism. There were three prongs to our travels: Puy du Fou, Cognac, and cave paintings. I will give particulars later; for now, it was a great leg of the trip.Now back at home and looking forward to the rains and the end of the fire season.
Quickly lose weight! I just lost about seven pounds. It may be temporary but it sure was fast. My secret? Well, I shall tell you.
COVID seems to be winding down. I emphasize seems because the hospitalization numbers are down, I have my full vaxx and booster, and the weather is getting nicer. After two years of caution and lock-in, it feels like it should be OK to get out and circulate a little among selected (healthy) groups. So I did. We have a group, a delegation, visiting Seattle from France. Although 2020 was the 45th anniversary of the twinning of Seattle (USA) and Nantes (FR), COVID postponed the plans for an exchange of delegate groups. In early 2022, all the signs were shaping up and they culminated in a group of 40-50 visitors from Nantes arriving in Seattle. The group represented maritime, aviation, elected/municipal, and cultural interests. From this, a series of meetings and explorations were planned throughout the week to explore opportunities. During the times of roaring COVID, we had arranged cultural exchanges such as art shows and a collaborative beer, #8000Kilometers with Lantern Brewing, and some face-time allowed us to seek other common interests and issues.As a cultural and social activity, the local Seattle-Nantes Sister City Association hosted a potluck dinner that featured local and American foods. This brought people together for an evening of socializing. We were brave: we went without masks indoors. I left the event very tired and went to bed somewhat late.
It was not a pleasant night. I woke in the middle of the night with classic symptoms of the flu. A low-grade fever, general pains, nausea, dry heaves. I was sorta-kinda OK until I went into the kitchen for some water. The lingering smell of warmed pizza (a midnight snack for someone else) hit me like a bat and I went straight for the toilet to empty my stomach. I went back to bed and repeated this dry/wet pattern a couple more times. I was pretty empty, dehydrated, groggy, and listless. I belabor all this because I do not think it was COVID - no breathing problems at all - just classic influenza symptoms coming down hard. I basically napped the next day and only kept down about four ounces of water throughout the day. The second night was unpleasant but far better than the first. I slept better, even after napping much of the day, and did not need to get up.
During this time, I skipped a pub crawl in the Ballard area one evening and a mayoral reception in Seattle the next. Sacrifices were made.
I woke up the next morning feeling fine. A bit dehydrated throughout the day, but alert and feeling fine.
So with this as context, I dropped seven pounds in 48 hours. I do not recommend the method, but I must admit it is effective. I shall do my best to make the advances stick and even multiply them, but that is only a silver lining from a very dark cloud.
The photo is from the Seattle Japanese Garden in the Arboretum.
Because of Easter weekend, US Taxes are due Monday, 18 April.