Saturday, March 04, 2023

The Angels' Share - 4 March 2023

Cognac is an ancient city.  The city was well established when Francois I was born there in 1494 and his salamander is carved into many buildings.  Although built from a light colored stone, some of the buildings have a grey or even black coloration on the exterior.  This color comes from Baudoinia compniacensi, a fungus that grows where it can be fed by alcohol. The alcohol lost during the aging process goes into the air, from which it is consumed by B. compniacensi.  The quantity of cognac that has evaporated is known as the Angels' Share.  We were told that the buildings with the black coloring are showing that they are active aging houses.  

Cognac is on display everywhere and the largest cognac houses dominate the riverfront.  These include Hennessy, Martell, Camus, and Remy Martin.  Courvoisier is based in a small town about 9 km outside Cognac.

An odd thing about cognac that distinguishes it from many other grape beverages (wine, champagne) is that it has no vintage.  By definition, the cognac houses run a sophisticated process that produces a product that is consistent from year to year.  The process is based on repeated taste tests and blending to produce the particular flavor of each house.  As their marketing has gotten more sophisticated, the houses produce cognac products with distinct flavors, and may even occasionally declare a vintage, but the traditional products are consistent by design.  Thus, an "old bottle of cognac" has no particular significance other than an emotional tie.

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